screeched, rather too proudly as our wheels went through a wet patch on the road. This wouldn't turn out to be an indicative of Rupert. Yes, it was sleepy. But it had charm,
emanating from the weatherboard houses neatly lining roads above the Downtown, through to the quaint shops in the Cow Bay district, aptly named after the once wharf-less bay where cows were dropped off by ship and left to swim to shore.
Our two-night stay was more recuperative rather than touristy. I'm amazed how long pain can linger in one's muscles, so it's good to be able to simply amble around a town with little planned. On these days coffee stops are about as complex as it gets. Decisions take an eternity. Body movements slow. Gazes linger.
We picked up a can of bear spray at the local fishing and camping shop. 'So, any suggestions on how we should use it?,' I asked intently, hoping for that snippet of local knowledge that would surely have us better prepared than other hapless tourists. A tired look meandered back. 'You just point it at the bear and press.' Well, what answer did I really expect. I finish signing a government form confirming who I was, and that I would promise to only use it on aggressive bears. Little did they know that should a bear even look at me funny, it was likely to get a dose of pepper to savour. 'Any bears you know of near where we're headed,?' I followed up. His gaze lifts to the drab ceiling. 'Just a Grizzly, not long after the descent from Rainbow Summit', he replied. Just a Grizzly.
Our next leg was 145km to Terrace, east from Rupert travelling along the majestic Skeena River. The 'River of Mists' lived up to its name, with light to heavy rain failing from low-sl
ung clouds, greeting us on our first leg to a Provincial Park - Prudhomme - 20km outside of Rupert. It was an easy start which allowed us to set up camp by mid-afternoon. It's nice to have camp set up a bit earlier than usual, although as the sun doesn't set in these parts until 10.30pm, you can find yourself at a loose end after a few hours. I pass time watching the clouds filter through trees a hundred or so feet above. Something about simple minds perhaps.
Our next day saw us travel just under 70km from Prudhomme to Kasik Resort. Sounds enticing, right? Resorts always conjure up images of pristine beaches, heat, and Coronas. Not so in northern BC. Try a highway maintenance yard that has been partly converted into a basic (yet pleasant) lodge, cafe and campground. A resort with a pragmatic edge. And wonderful
staff, I might add, who couldn't do enough for us, whether it was feeding us with wholesome food or ensuring we had a hot shower (self interest on their behalf, perhaps?). Kasiks would be more than a worthy end to this day of cycling, one which had us travelling along the very edge of the Skeena.
ung clouds, greeting us on our first leg to a Provincial Park - Prudhomme - 20km outside of Rupert. It was an easy start which allowed us to set up camp by mid-afternoon. It's nice to have camp set up a bit earlier than usual, although as the sun doesn't set in these parts until 10.30pm, you can find yourself at a loose end after a few hours. I pass time watching the clouds filter through trees a hundred or so feet above. Something about simple minds perhaps.Our next day saw us travel just under 70km from Prudhomme to Kasik Resort. Sounds enticing, right? Resorts always conjure up images of pristine beaches, heat, and Coronas. Not so in northern BC. Try a highway maintenance yard that has been partly converted into a basic (yet pleasant) lodge, cafe and campground. A resort with a pragmatic edge. And wonderful
staff, I might add, who couldn't do enough for us, whether it was feeding us with wholesome food or ensuring we had a hot shower (self interest on their behalf, perhaps?). Kasiks would be more than a worthy end to this day of cycling, one which had us travelling along the very edge of the Skeena.
The scenery, like most things you'll see in BC, was majestic. Snow-capped mountains,
And, so, into Terrace we rode. A town of a little more than 10,000, stands at the confluence of five valleys, including the one we rode east along. Our time with Gord and Kim was another focused on conversations and coffees rather than too much on tours and snapshots. In saying that, they both ensured we saw what we needed to see in the surrounding area. That included a magic day spent travelling north into Nisga'a Memorial Lava Bed Park. It's in this area that Canada's most recent volcanic eruption took place in the mid-1700s. The lava burst forth from little more than a hole in the ground, yet it was enough to fill much of a large valley floor.
I can't talk highly enough of all the Woodds during our stay in BC. All opened their warm homes to us, and treated us like family. It's not easy doing that, and Alia and I certainly appreciated it. And, so, it was with great sadness that we boarded the Skeena train on our way to Jasper, Alberta. The train starts at Rupert, although we could pick it up at Terrace. It's a 1160km journey, one that starts by following the Skeena, and ends adjacent the start of the Fraser River, which goes on to empty into the Ocean in southern Vancouver, right near Becky and Graeme's place in Richmond. Talk about coming (almost) full circle.
Waiting at the other end was my 22-year old niece, Monique, who stayed with us in Toronto for a few months. I'll update you on this leg in the coming weeks, one that will see us start our gradual cycle south, all the way to Mexico. And to those resorts that really do have Coronas. And hot weather.
pristine waters, and thick, lush forests. Throw in a generous shoulder along a largely flat highway, and a healthy tailwind, and you've got two very happy cyclists, averaging 25km/hr at times without too much effort.
Luckily for us it only rained for an hour or so, and we enjoyed snippets of sun most of the way.
After setting up camp at Kasiks Resort we ventured into the much-hyped cafe. Well, when I say much-hyped, I mean to say the Scottish guy at Rupert's only cycle store gave it a big thumbs up. He also liked talking soccer, so in my mind he was an excellent source of all knowledge. He talked fondly of the
After setting up camp at Kasiks Resort we ventured into the much-hyped cafe. Well, when I say much-hyped, I mean to say the Scottish guy at Rupert's only cycle store gave it a big thumbs up. He also liked talking soccer, so in my mind he was an excellent source of all knowledge. He talked fondly of the
blueberry pie they made at Kasiks; what he didn't mention was the hamburgers they made, completely home-made and with a huge side of pasta salad. Not intent on just gorging on a burger, we then progressed towards the 'pies' menu...and by pies, we're talking home-made monoliths filled with fresh BC-grown fruits and vegetables, all topped with cream and ice-cream (we couldn't decide, so she gave us both). Ehh.
It was about this same time we had a surprise visit by Gordon and Kim, our friends from Terrace. They had driven the 57km from Terrace to see how we were going, and in their wisdom brought me a cold beer. Talk about having your cake and eating it, too. I hadn't seen Gordon and Kim in 16 years - Gordon is the brother of Becky and Ellen, whom you'll
recognise from my earlier posts. The Woodd's have been very, very good to us, and Gordon and Kim would be no exception.
Our next day was gleefully rain-free, and despite a couple of solid uphill sections, another tailwind helped us get into Terrace with energy to spare. A highlight along this leg was the Sitka spruce at Exchamsiks River Provincial Park; a sample of Kitimat Ranges ecosystem, the trees, as gloriously tall and beautiful in isolation as they are, were often set against a background of sheer granite-encrusted mountains. As with much of our trip to date, once off the highway we generally had places to ourselves. Just relative silence. Apart from the odd growl of a logging truck barrelling down the nearby highway every few minutes. Yet the minutes of silence were wonderful as they were.
recognise from my earlier posts. The Woodd's have been very, very good to us, and Gordon and Kim would be no exception.
Our next day was gleefully rain-free, and despite a couple of solid uphill sections, another tailwind helped us get into Terrace with energy to spare. A highlight along this leg was the Sitka spruce at Exchamsiks River Provincial Park; a sample of Kitimat Ranges ecosystem, the trees, as gloriously tall and beautiful in isolation as they are, were often set against a background of sheer granite-encrusted mountains. As with much of our trip to date, once off the highway we generally had places to ourselves. Just relative silence. Apart from the odd growl of a logging truck barrelling down the nearby highway every few minutes. Yet the minutes of silence were wonderful as they were.
And, so, into Terrace we rode. A town of a little more than 10,000, stands at the confluence of five valleys, including the one we rode east along. Our time with Gord and Kim was another focused on conversations and coffees rather than too much on tours and snapshots. In saying that, they both ensured we saw what we needed to see in the surrounding area. That included a magic day spent travelling north into Nisga'a Memorial Lava Bed Park. It's in this area that Canada's most recent volcanic eruption took place in the mid-1700s. The lava burst forth from little more than a hole in the ground, yet it was enough to fill much of a large valley floor.
Now a First Nations Reserve, managed in part with BC
Parks, it's been well preserved,
although Gord assures me that ma
ny a Terrace BBQ is fired by the leftover lava rocks despite requests not to remove anything from the park.
During the trip we were treated to four separate sightings of black bears, all munching on grasses and roots near the side of what was a relatively quiet road. It was quite something to be this close to a bear; you're not quite as worried about them when you have a car wrapped around you.
During the trip we were treated to four separate sightings of black bears, all munching on grasses and roots near the side of what was a relatively quiet road. It was quite something to be this close to a bear; you're not quite as worried about them when you have a car wrapped around you.
To top it off, a beaver had decided to eat near the road as well; so, having never really had a close look at either animal before, here both were served up as 'easily' as you please. And the bear spray wasn't required.
Gord astounds us with his knowledge of the local area; we're both so impressed with this, and his pride in showing us. And, well, his wonderful sense of irony and sarcasm. Kim has a healthy dose of these traits as well. It's an outlook filled with a sense that some things - well, most things perhaps - are often better laughed at than taken too seriously.
Gord was as enthusiastic about the
World Cup as I, so each morning we were generally up by 8 to watch whatever game was showing. In two instances that involved trips to their second house, one they're renovating. It's home to what must be the largest TV in town, maybe even BC, with more inches than a Carl Lewis long jump. I almost felt like genuflecting in front of it. And, so it was, we enjoyed a couple of games of soccer and, later in the week, the movie 2012.
I can't talk highly enough of all the Woodds during our stay in BC. All opened their warm homes to us, and treated us like family. It's not easy doing that, and Alia and I certainly appreciated it. And, so, it was with great sadness that we boarded the Skeena train on our way to Jasper, Alberta. The train starts at Rupert, although we could pick it up at Terrace. It's a 1160km journey, one that starts by following the Skeena, and ends adjacent the start of the Fraser River, which goes on to empty into the Ocean in southern Vancouver, right near Becky and Graeme's place in Richmond. Talk about coming (almost) full circle.
Waiting at the other end was my 22-year old niece, Monique, who stayed with us in Toronto for a few months. I'll update you on this leg in the coming weeks, one that will see us start our gradual cycle south, all the way to Mexico. And to those resorts that really do have Coronas. And hot weather.
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